ST. ANDREWS — After stepping into St. Andrews Coffee House & Bistro on Friday morning, I quickly found out I was surrounded by family and friends.
An area family reunion of sorts, I was greeted by Sydney Price, whose fiancé, James Pigneri, was in the kitchen. James’ parents, Jim Pigneri and Mary Stone, were talking to customers, when his sister, Jessica Nelson, came to take my order.
Jessica, who has been in the medical field for 12 years, has managed to stay out of the family restaurant business. But that hasn’t kept her from lending her brother a hand since he opened the coffee house Jan. 6.
“I haven’t been up this early in years,” admitted their dad, Jim, who retired from the restaurant business nine years ago.
Cousins Sean Lyon and Erin Pigneri are carrying on the family tradition that started when Jim and his sister, Mary Lou Parrish, opened Uncle Ernie’s on Bayview Avenue in 1993.
Wearing a white apron, Jim came over to adjust the heater, while I tried to wake up with my first cup of coffee for the day — a large cup of hot coffee with hazelnut syrup.
“I told him I would help him out till he got on his feet, but then I’ve got to go back to bed,” Jim added.
Former St. Andrews Coffee House owners Ellen Mapelsden and Robbie Fehrenbach, who closed the business Dec. 20, were even helping out by waiting on customers at tables and behind the counter. But their connection to the building, where their Great Uncle Bill Gainer once operated Gainer Brothers’ Grocery, goes beyond the 17 years they ran the coffee house.
“I think I’ve found my niche,” said Ellen, who added, “It was just the two of us. I think people are going to like having that extra service.”
There were so many people happily willing to take orders, I was overwhelmed with hospitality.
Mary was just stopping by to help before her shop, The White Elephant, opened around the corner on W. 12th Street at 10 a.m.
“I love this area,” said Mary, who retired from St. Andrews School two years ago after teaching for 25 years. “A lot of these are my customers, too.”
A third generation restaurateur, James is staying true to the coffee house’s feel and to the historic area, plus adding a great new menu.
“We still want to be a neighborhood gathering place,” Sydney said. “The menu is the same as the decor — we tried to keep half old and half new. A lot of stuff was Robbie and Ellen’s personal items.”
James pointed out a few of the changes that have been made — adding a fireplace, pendulum lights and paneling on the walls.
“Product of Columbia” hangs over the fireplace by the “put and take library,” just above a picture of James and his dad framed on the mantle.
Breakfast, served until 10:30 a.m., keeps favorites such as Robbie & Ellen’s Homemade French Toast and adds Big Rose’s Homemade Pancakes — “That’s our grandmother,” Jessica added.
I went with the Mexican Scrambled Eggs, sort of a deconstructed version of their Breakfast Burrito. Three scrambled eggs with thick cuts of ham and cheese, tomatoes and fresh cilantro filled most of the plate, some hidden under my English muffin. It was served with a side of black bean corn salsa and fresh jam made by Miss Daisy of Murphy, N.C., who Jim had discovered. Jars of Traffic Jam, Frog Jam, Black Bear Jam also are available.
“We have a deli case with deli sliced meats, cheese and grab and go items from the menu — pasta salad, chick pea salad, veggie burgers, fresh jams and jellies,” Sydney added.
I was unable to finish my plate, but I would definitely order it again.
“I like to have leftovers,” Sydney admitted.
The bistro is quickly becoming known for its generous portions and Big Jim’s Famous Home Fries with Onion.
The lunch menu is filled with soup and salads, including Syds Chickenless Chicken Salad with mashed chick peas with onions, celery, spicy mustard and mayo on a bed of greens, and Robbie and Ellen’s Cranberry-Pecan Chicken Salad Plate.
Customers and family members have raved about the potato and ham soup of the day and the lentil soup, Jim’s recipe.
Cold sandwiches include the ABLT with bacon, lettuce, tomato and avocado, and the St. Andrew Shrimp Roll, their version of a New England lobster roll with Gulf shrimp pieces, celery, onion, mayo and bay seasoning, each served on homemade baguettes.
Warm up with any of the six hot sandwiches, including the Fish Taco Wrap, Filet Mignon Sandwich and Grilled Portobello. Be sure to check the counter for more homemade pastries, desserts and bread.
“For breakfast, we do mimosas and Bloody Marys,” James added. “You can purchase our craft beer in a six-pack and walk out the door with it.”
Columbian Supremo, the same coffee Robbie and Ellen used, also is available by the bag.
“I’ve been living here for three years, and I love this little neighborhood,” said John Daw, who was talking to Mary while joining a group at a table. “When I do come here, everyone knows everyone. There's a lot going on; it’s so much more involved.”
Katelyn French joined John at the table.
“We come over here for meetings. It’s really laid back. Everyone is so friendly here,” said Katelyn, who then noted, “A lot more is on the menu.”
ST. ANDREWS COFFEE HOUSE & BISTRO
- What: Breakfast, lunch, coffee, fine wine and beer; special events and catering
- Where: 1006 Beck Ave., St. Andrews
- Hours: 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday
- Details: 769-3767